Appendix A: Chronology of Major Designs

1910-1920: The Foundation Years - 1910: First boutique opens at 21 rue Cambon; simple straw boater hats - 1913: Deauville boutique introduces jersey sportswear - 1915: Biarritz boutique; first full clothing collection - 1916: First use of jersey for day dresses - 1917: Introduction of the "marinière" (sailor stripe top) - 1918: Development of the chemise dress - 1919: Registration of Chanel No. 5 trademark

1920-1930: The Revolutionary Decade - 1921: Launch of Chanel No. 5 perfume - 1922: Introduction of Chanel No. 22 - 1923: First tweed suits appear in collections - 1924: Creation of Société des Parfums Chanel - 1925: Introduction of the collarless cardigan jacket - 1926: The Little Black Dress debuts (October) - 1927: Launch of Chanel's first makeup line - 1928: Introduction of two-tone shoes - 1929: First appearance of camellia motif

1930-1939: Refinement and Expansion - 1930: Hollywood contract with Samuel Goldwyn - 1932: "Bijoux de Diamants" high jewelry collection - 1933: Introduction of structured shoulder designs - 1935: Peak employment: over 4,000 workers - 1936: Evening pajamas and palazzo pants - 1937: Development of the classic Chanel suit silhouette - 1938: Final pre-war collection featuring gypsy influences - 1939: Closure of fashion house (September)

1954-1971: The Comeback Years - 1954: Reopening collection (February 5) - 1955: Introduction of the 2.55 quilted handbag (February) - 1957: Two-tone slingback shoes perfected - 1959: Expansion of the classic suit variations - 1960: Chain belts introduced - 1963: Development of bouclé tweed suits - 1965: Launch of men's cologne "Pour Monsieur" - 1968: Mini-length suit skirts (her only concession to the trend) - 1970: Launch of Chanel No. 19 perfume - 1971: Final collection (January)