The Fashion Philosophy Refined

In her final years, Chanel's fashion philosophy achieved an almost mystical clarity. She spoke less of fashion and more of style, less of trends and more of eternal principles. Her pronouncements, collected and repeated by fashion journalists, became a kind of scripture for those seeking to understand her approach to design and life.

Central to her late philosophy was the concept of appropriateness. Clothes should suit the wearer, the occasion, and the life being lived. This seems obvious now but was revolutionary in a fashion culture that often prioritized dramatic effect over practical reality. She despised fashion that made women victims—hobble skirts that prevented walking, elaborate constructions that required assistance to manage.

The relationship between fashion and time obsessed her. While other designers sought novelty each season, Chanel pursued timelessness. She understood that true elegance transcended temporal markers. A Chanel suit from 1955 should look as appropriate in 1965 or 1975. This philosophy required enormous confidence—the belief that one's vision could outlast changing trends.

Her views on beauty and aging were complex and sometimes contradictory. She maintained that elegance was possible at any age but also clung to her own youthful presentation with increasing desperation. The contrast between her philosophy of natural grace and her own heavily made-up appearance in later years revealed the difficulty of accepting aging even for someone who preached confidence.

The democratization of fashion remained important to her, though her prices hardly reflected democratic principles. She believed elegance was an attitude available to anyone, that style could be achieved through understanding rather than spending. This philosophy, spread through interviews and the increasing availability of Chanel-inspired designs at lower price points, influenced how women worldwide thought about dressing.