Chapter 2: Wine, Beer, and the Alcohol Transition

French cafés seamlessly transform from coffee houses to drinking establishments as the day progresses. This flexibility reflects French attitudes toward alcohol—integrated into daily life rather than segregated into specialized venues.

The apéro (aperitif) tradition marks the day's pivot point. Between 17:00 and 20:00, coffee cups yield to wine glasses and beer demis. The verb "prendre l'apéro" encompasses more than drinking—it means transitioning from work to leisure, from solitude to sociability, from day to evening.

Wine selection in cafés ranges from basic to excellent. House wines, served in pitchers or by the glass, provide affordable quality. The French talent for finding drinkable wine at any price point extends to café service. Red dominates, though rosé gains summer ground and white maintains steady presence. The balloon glass for red, the smaller stem for white—these conventions ensure proper appreciation even in casual settings.

Beer culture in French cafés differs from Anglo-Saxon pub traditions. The demi (half-pint) represents standard serving size—enough to refresh without overwhelming. Pressure (draft) beer trumps bottles for freshness and economy. The arrival of craft beer challenges traditions, with IPAs and stouts competing against classic lagers.

Aperitif culture extends beyond wine and beer. Pastis—the anise-flavored spirit diluted with water—remains popular in the south. Kir (white wine with blackcurrant liqueur) and its variations provide festive options. The spritz, imported from Italy, conquers summer terraces. Each drink carries social coding—pastis for old-timers, spritz for trend-followers, wine for everyone.

The café's alcohol service differs crucially from bars. Intoxication is discouraged; the goal is social lubrication, not inebriation. Servers monitor consumption, slowing service for overindulgers. The social shame of public drunkenness provides powerful regulation. Cafés want customers who return daily, not those who embarrass themselves nightly.