Chapter 3: The Social Choreography - Unwritten Rules and Rituals

French café culture operates according to an intricate set of unwritten rules. Violating these codes marks one immediately as an outsider, while mastering them provides entry into the social fabric of French life.

The Greeting Ritual: Upon entering a café, regulars acknowledge the room with a general "Bonjour" or "Bonsoir." This isn't directed at anyone specific but recognizes the social space. Failure to greet is considered rus (boorish). The patron behind the bar receives a direct greeting, establishing the social contract.

Seating Hierarchies: Counter, inside, or terrace? Each zone has different prices and social implications. The comptoir (counter) is cheapest and most democratic. Inside tables suit intimate conversations or solitary work. The terrace, most expensive, serves for voir et être vu (seeing and being seen).

The Art of Occupancy: Unlike American coffee culture's implied time limits, French cafés allow indefinite lingering. One coffee purchases the right to occupy space for hours. However, unwritten rules govern table size—claiming a four-person table alone during rush hour breaches etiquette.

Personal Space Paradoxes: Cafés compress personal space while maintaining privacy. Tables practically touch, conversations overlap, yet an invisible bubble surrounds each party. Direct eye contact with strangers is avoided, though peripheral awareness of surrounding dramas is expected.

Payment Protocols: When and how to pay varies by establishment and situation. At the zinc, you often pay immediately. At tables, the addition (bill) arrives only upon request. The server's memory for who ordered what, even hours later, reflects professional pride. Splitting bills annoys servers—the French expect one person to pay and others to settle up privately.