Culinary Traditions: Taste of the Sea

Coastal cuisine varies dramatically along France's shores, each region developing distinctive preparations based on local catches and cultural influences. Brittany's cotriade, a fish stew using whatever the boats bring in, reflects practical fishermen's cooking—simple, hearty, infinitely variable. The best versions layer different fish by cooking time, creating complex flavors from basic ingredients.

Marseille's bouillabaisse represents coastal cooking's opposite pole—codified, ritualized, fiercely protected. The Marseille Charter specifies which fish can be used (at least four from a list including rascasse, John Dory, and conger eel), how they must be prepared (whole, cleaned but not scaled), and proper service (fish and broth separately, with rouille and croutons). This standardization protects authenticity while creating economic value—true bouillabaisse commands premium prices.

The Atlantic coast developed preservation techniques essential before refrigeration. Salt cod from Saint-Malo fed much of Catholic Europe. Sardines canned in Brittany traveled worldwide. The Basques perfected methods for preserving anchovies and tuna, creating products that improved with age like wine. These preserved foods enabled long voyages while creating distinct flavors now prized for themselves rather than necessity.

Oyster culture transcends mere consumption. The French classify oysters by origin with wine-like precision: Bélon oysters from Brittany offer metallic, coppery notes; Marennes-Oléron develops vegetal sweetness from finishing in clay ponds; Bouzigues from the Mediterranean provides brinier, more mineral flavors. Oyster tasting has its vocabulary, rituals, and fierce regional loyalties, elevating bivalves to cultural artifacts.