Islands of Character

Brittany's numerous islands each maintain distinct identities despite—or perhaps because of—their isolation. Ouessant (Ushant in English), the westernmost, has shaped its culture around extreme conditions. Winter storms can isolate the island for weeks, breeding a self-reliant population who traditionally saw more of America (many served on transatlantic liners) than mainland France. The island's five major lighthouses, including the Créac'h, one of the world's most powerful, testify to the dangers of these waters, through which 50,000 ships pass annually.

Molène, smaller and lower-lying, developed a unique seaweed-harvesting economy. Islanders collect kelp at low tide, once burned for soda ash used in glass-making, now harvested for food and cosmetic industries. This sustainable practice, dating back centuries, provides a model for how traditional activities can adapt to modern markets.

Groix, accessible from Lorient, transformed from France's leading tuna port to a haven for artists and second-home owners, yet maintains a year-round population determined to preserve island life. The tension between preservation and development plays out here in microcosm—how to welcome visitors who support the economy without losing what makes the island special.