Savoie: Alpine Freshness
Mountain Wine Culture
Savoie's vineyards cling to Alpine slopes, scattered across valleys from Lake Geneva to the Isère Valley. This is ski country, where vineyards compete with tourism and development. But these mountain wines offer something unique: crystalline purity, electric acidity, and food-friendly lightness that matches perfectly with cheese fondue and raclette.Long dismissed as simple vacation wines, Savoie has found new appreciation as climate change makes freshness precious. These high-altitude, cool-climate wines suddenly seem prescient rather than primitive.
The Geography
Savoie's vineyards scatter across four departments: - Haute-Savoie: Near Lake Geneva - Savoie: The heart around Chambéry - Ain: Bugey appellation - Isère: Scattered vineyardsKey features: - Altitude up to 500 meters - Glacial soils with limestone - Lakes moderating climate - Steep slopes requiring heroic viticulture
The Grapes
Jacquère (zhah-CARE): The workhorse white - 50% of plantings - Light, crisp, neutral - Perfect aperitif - Drinks young
Altesse (al-TESS): The noble white - Also called Roussette - More complex than Jacquère - Age-worthy versions exist - Honeyed, mineral character
Mondeuse (mon-DUHZ): The serious red - Related to Syrah - Spicy, peppery character - Age-worthy when serious - Savoie's best red
Others: - Bergeron: Local name for Roussanne - Persan: Nearly extinct red - Chasselas: Swiss border specialty - Gamay: Simple reds - Pinot Noir: Increasing plantings
Savoie's Appellations
Vin de Savoie: The umbrella - 16 crus (villages) can append names - Most basic designation - Variable quality - Best crus: Apremont, Abymes, Chignin
Roussette de Savoie: Altesse focus - Four crus for best sites - More serious than basic Savoie - Frangy, Monterminod, Monthoux, Marestel
Seyssel: Sparkling specialist - Still and sparkling wines - Altesse and Molette grapes - Royal warrant history - Try: Maison Mollex (€15-25)
Bugey: Diversity in isolation - Separate from main Savoie - Cerdon: Sweet sparkling rosé - Montagnieu: Still wines - Manicle: Single-producer cru - Try: Patrick Bottex for Cerdon (€15-20)
Crépy: Chasselas by the lake - Near Lake Geneva - Swiss-style wines - Light, mineral whites - Drinks young
Key Producers
Domaine Belluard: Biodynamic pioneer - Late Dominique Belluard's legacy continues - Exceptional Gringet (rare grape) - Natural approach - Limited availability
Domaine Prieuré Saint-Christophe: Mondeuse master - Michel Grisard makes serious reds - Old vine focus - Traditional methods - Age-worthy wines
André & Michel Quenard: Chignin specialists - Bergeron (Roussanne) excellence - Family tradition - Wide range of styles - Good availability