Champ de Mars: From Military Ground to People's Garden
The Champ de Mars stretches southeast from the Eiffel Tower like a green carpet unrolled for giants. This 24.5-hectare park has witnessed more history than perhaps any other open space in Paris, evolving from military drilling ground to revolutionary festival site to the democratic garden where Parisians of all backgrounds gather today.
Military Origins and Revolutionary Theater
Named after the Campus Martius in Rome, the Champ de Mars was created in 1765 as a parade ground for the École Militaire. Its vast, flat expanse—780 meters long and 220 meters wide—could accommodate 10,000 soldiers in formation. The sandy soil, deliberately chosen for its drainage, created clouds of dust during exercises that drifted across the then-rural Left Bank.
The French Revolution transformed this military space into democracy's stage. On July 14, 1790, the Fête de la Fédération saw 300,000 Parisians gather here to celebrate the first anniversary of the Bastille's fall. Citizens worked alongside nobles to build amphitheater seating. Louis XVI took an oath to the constitution on an altar designed by the painter David. Rain soaked the crowds, but spirits soared—for one brief moment, all of France seemed united.
Less uplifting scenes followed. The Champ de Mars Massacre of July 17, 1791, saw National Guard troops fire on republican demonstrators, killing dozens. During the Terror, the field hosted macabre festivals to the "Supreme Being." Each regime change brought new ceremonies, as if controlling this space meant controlling Paris itself.
The Exposition Grounds
The Champ de Mars found its modern identity as an exposition ground. The Universal Exhibitions of 1867, 1878, 1889, 1900, and 1937 each transformed the space into a temporary city of pavilions showcasing human achievement. Between fairs, the ground returned to military use or lay fallow, awaiting the next transformation.
The 1889 Exposition that birthed the Eiffel Tower covered the entire Champ de Mars with fantastic structures: the Gallery of Machines (a cathedral of iron and glass 420 meters long), colonial pavilions recreating Cairo streets and Javanese villages, and gardens displaying the world's flora. When the fair ended, all vanished except the tower—a permanent reminder of temporary dreams.
Today's Democratic Garden
Modern Champ de Mars embodies democratic ideals more successfully than any revolutionary festival. On weekend afternoons, the lawn hosts a glorious chaos of picnickers speaking dozens of languages. West African families spread elaborate feasts beside French students with wine and cheese. Chinese tour groups photograph each other with tower backdrops while local kids kick footballs between the trees.
The park's design, refined over decades, creates distinct experiences:
The Grand Lawn: Closest to the tower, this remains open for large gatherings. Bastille Day fireworks watchers arrive at dawn to claim spots. During the 2018 World Cup final, 90,000 people watched on giant screens, erupting in joy at France's victory.
The Allées: Tree-lined paths on either side provide shaded walks. The eastern allée hosts a puppet theater (Théâtre de Guignol) that has delighted children since 1903. Shows haven't changed much—Guignol still outwits the gendarme—but audiences now represent the world.
The Gardens: Landscaped sections between paths showcase seasonal plantings. The sustainable garden near Suffren demonstrates water-saving techniques. School groups learn urban agriculture while homeless individuals, tolerated by authorities, sometimes sleep rough among the educational displays—a reminder of persistent inequalities.
The Wall of Peace: At the park's far end, this glass monument (2000) carries "peace" written in 49 languages and receives visitor's written wishes. Critics call it uninspired; supporters note its function as gathering place for protests and vigils.
Local Life in the Champ
Marie-Claire Rousseau, who has lived overlooking the Champ de Mars since 1962, describes the park's rhythms: "Early morning belongs to joggers and dog walkers—we all know each other, nod hello. By ten, tourist buses arrive. Lunch brings office workers from the ministries. Afternoons are for families. Evenings in summer, young people gather with guitars and wine. After the tower sparkles at midnight, it's quiet again, just the occasional taxi and maybe lovers on a bench."
The park hosts neighborhood democracy in action. Local associations meet here to discuss everything from tree maintenance to concert permits. The annual vide-grenier (neighborhood garage sale) transforms allées into browsing grounds where diplomats' wives haggle with students over vintage clothes.
Hidden corners reward exploration: - The playground near avenue de Suffren, renovated with accessibility equipment after parent campaigns - The petanque courts where retired military officers play with recent immigrants - The underground bunker entrances, sealed but visible, from WWII occupation - The spot near the Australia Avenue where Aborigine activists held ceremonies during the 2000 Olympics