Dairy: Modernization and Market Pressures

France's dairy sector, producing 24 billion liters of milk annually, illustrates agriculture's industrial transformation. The romantic image of small farms with a few cows has given way to modern operations averaging 65 dairy cows using robotic milking systems, precision feeding, and sophisticated herd management software.

The Cooperative Model

Dairy cooperatives play a crucial role, collecting milk from 54,000 producers and transforming it into cheese, yogurt, butter, and other products. Lactalis, originating from a small Mayenne cheese-making operation, has grown into the world's largest dairy company with €20 billion in revenue.

Sophie Martin runs a 120-cow operation in Normandy, supplying milk to a cooperative producing Camembert cheese. Her day begins at 4 AM with automated milking, but technology hasn't eliminated challenges:

"The milk price volatility is brutal. In 2016, we barely covered feed costs. We've diversified—selling some milk directly as raw milk from vending machines, making our own yogurt, and opening our farm for educational visits. You can't just be a milk producer anymore; you need multiple revenue streams."

The Cheese Economy

France's 400+ cheese varieties represent agricultural products transformed into cultural patrimony. The cheese sector generates €9 billion annually, with AOC cheeses commanding premium prices. Small producers like Jean-Marc Bouvier in the Jura, making traditional Comté, coexist with industrial operations. The sector demonstrates how regulation, tradition, and marketing create value:

- AOC regulations preserve traditional methods while ensuring quality - Cheese routes attract tourists to production regions - Export markets, particularly to Asia, drive growth - Artisanal cheese shops in cities connect urban consumers to rural producers