Cassis and Bandol: Wine Meets Water

East of Marseille, the coast softens into a series of bays and capes where some of Provence's finest wines grow within sight of the sea. Cassis (not to be confused with the blackcurrant liqueur) produces distinctive white wines from vineyards that climb the amphitheater of hills behind the port. The appellation's 200 hectares, fiercely protected from development, yield wines that somehow capture both limestone minerality and sea spray.

The port of Cassis maintains its fishing fleet alongside tourist boats offering trips to the calanques. The balance works because locals insisted on it—berths for working boats are subsidized, traditional pointus receive priority, and fishermen still sell directly on the quay. The Wednesday and Friday markets bring producers from the backcountry, creating an economy that extends beyond coastal tourism.

Bandol, further east, built its reputation on powerful red wines that require years to reveal their complexity. The vineyards, planted on restanques (terraced hillsides), represent centuries of patient labor, each stone wall a testament to human determination. The appellation's rules, among France's strictest, require hand harvesting and traditional methods, ensuring quality over quantity.

The coast between these wine towns offers some of Provence's most appealing beaches. The Plage de la Grande Mer at Cassis provides classic Mediterranean swimming, while Bandol's series of small beaches and coves offers variety for different tastes. The coastal path connecting them passes through landscapes where parasol pines lean over turquoise water, where the scent of herbs mingles with salt air, where the Mediterranean dream becomes reality.