Toulon: Naval Heritage and Natural Harbor

Toulon's magnificent natural harbor has determined its destiny as France's premier naval base. The roadstead, protected by peninsulas and islands, can shelter an entire fleet—which it does, as home port to France's Mediterranean naval forces including the nuclear aircraft carrier Charles de Gaulle. The military presence shapes the city's character, from the bars catering to sailors to the naval museum documenting centuries of maritime power.

Yet Toulon offers more than military might. The morning market on the Cours Lafayette explodes with Provençal abundance: olives in a dozen preparations, herbs tied in bouquets, fish still glistening from the sea. The cable car to Mont Faron provides spectacular views over the harbor and coast, revealing the geographic logic that made this an inevitable site for a major port.

The city has worked to overcome its reputation as merely a naval base. The renovation of the old town, the creation of beach facilities at Mourillon, and cultural investments like the renovation of the opera house have made Toulon increasingly attractive to visitors seeking authenticity without tourist prices. The Tuesday morning flea market at Place Monsenergue offers treasures for those willing to search, while the beaches east of the city provide surprisingly good swimming for an urban setting.