Following the River: Four Distinct Regions

Pays Nantais: Atlantic Influence

Where the Loire meets the Atlantic, Muscadet country begins. This is seafood wine territory, where ocean breezes and maritime climate create the perfect partner for oysters. But Muscadet has evolved far beyond simple shellfish wine.

Muscadet (moos-kah-DEH): More than meets the eye - Made from Melon de Bourgogne grape - Four appellations, with Sèvre-et-Maine the heart - Sur lie aging adds texture and complexity - Crus Communaux: New village designations for best sites - Try: Domaine de l'Ecu (€15-25), Luneau-Papin (€12-20)

The revolution here comes from growers who see Muscadet's potential for terroir expression. The three crus—Clisson, Gorges, and Le Pallet—must age longer and show distinct personalities. Climate change helps too: riper grapes reveal Muscadet's capacity for complexity.

Beyond Muscadet: - Gros Plant: Crisp, acidic Folle Blanche - Coteaux d'Ancenis: Light reds from Gamay - Fiefs Vendéens: Rising quality from coastal vineyards

Anjou-Saumur: Chenin's Kingdom

Moving inland, the landscape changes. Tuffeau limestone cliffs rise from the river, carved with wine caves. This is Chenin Blanc's heartland, where this chameleon grape makes everything from bone-dry to lusciously sweet wines, still and sparkling.

Anjou (ahn-ZHOO): Diverse and undervalued - Still fighting "Rosé d'Anjou" sweet pink reputation - Serious dry whites from Savennières - Excellent Cabernet Franc-based reds - Sweet wine renaissance in Coteaux du Layon

Savennières (sah-ven-YAIR): Chenin's grand cru - Austere, mineral, age-worthy dry whites - Two sub-appellations: Roche aux Moines, Coulée de Serrant - Biodynamic pioneer Nicolas Joly at Coulée de Serrant - Try: Domaine aux Moines (€25-35), Thibaud Boudignon (€30-40)

Coteaux du Layon (co-TOE doo lay-OHN): Liquid gold - Botrytis-affected sweet Chenin Blanc - Bonnezeaux and Quarts de Chaume: Grand crus of sweet wine - Climate change threatens ideal conditions - Try: Domaine Patrick Baudouin (€30-40), Château Pierre-Bise (€25-35)

Saumur (so-MUHR): Sparkling and still - Crémant de Loire often made here - Saumur-Champigny: Loire's best Cabernet Franc - Limestone soils create elegant reds - Try: Clos Rougeard (€100+), Domaine Guiberteau (€30-40)

Touraine: The Garden's Heart

The central Loire showcases French civilization at its finest. Tours and Amboise anchor a region of royal châteaux, pristine wines, and the local dialect that became standard French. Here, variety rules: Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, and more create distinct expressions.

Vouvray (voo-VRAY): Chenin's many faces - Dry (sec), off-dry (demi-sec), sweet (moelleux), sparkling - Incredible ageability—decades for good vintages - Limestone caves provide perfect storage - Try: Domaine Huet (€20-50), François Chidaine (€25-35)

Montlouis-sur-Loire (mon-LWEE): Vouvray's mirror - Across river from Vouvray, similar styles - Often better value - Slightly lighter, more mineral - Try: François Chidaine, Domaine de la Taille aux Loups (€15-25)

Chinon (shee-NOHN): Cabernet Franc capital - Three terroirs: riverside gravel, mid-slope, plateau - From light and fruity to serious age-worthy - "Drink it from morning to night" says local proverb - Try: Charles Joguet (€20-30), Bernard Baudry (€25-35)

Bourgueil (boor-GUY): Chinon's structured sibling - More tannic Cabernet Franc - Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil: Lighter sub-zone - Excellent value for age-worthy reds - Try: Catherine & Pierre Breton (€15-25), Yannick Amirault (€20-30)

Upper Loire: Continental Extremes

The Loire's upper reaches feel far from the Atlantic's influence. Here, continental climate and different soils create distinct wines. This is Sauvignon Blanc's original home, where it achieves a mineral purity unmatched elsewhere.

Sancerre (sahn-SAIR): Sauvignon's benchmark - Limestone and silex (flint) soils - Also makes excellent Pinot Noir - Chavignol: Famous for wine and goat cheese - Try: Vincent Pinard (€20-30), Domaine Vacheron (€25-35)

Pouilly-Fumé (poo-YEE foo-MAY): Sancerre's smoky twin - Across river from Sancerre - "Fumé" refers to smoky/flinty character - More full-bodied than Sancerre - Try: Didier Dagueneau (€50-150), Jonathan Pabiot (€20-30)

Menetou-Salon (men-eh-TOO sah-LOHN): The value alternative - Same grapes as Sancerre - Limestone soils, similar style - Often half the price - Try: Domaine Pellé (€15-25), Domaine de Châtenoy (€12-20)

Quincy & Reuilly (kan-SEE, ruh-YEE): Hidden gems - Small appellations, Sauvignon only in Quincy - Reuilly makes all three colors - Excellent value for pure expression - Try: Domaine Minchin (€12-18), Claude Lafond (€15-20)